Video: 15 Year Old Riley Laing's First Session At Waimea

14 Nov 2013 0 Share

WAVE OF THE WEEK

Surfer: Riley Laing
Film: Owen Milne
Location: Waimea Bay, Hawaii

You probably remember Riley Laing as that young fella who has been tackling macking Shipsterns and other heavy breaks in the last few years. The grom charges. At the moment Riley is six days into a six week stint on the North Shore of Oahu. And today, thanks to a kicking swell, he was given the opportunity to paddle out at the famed Waimea Bay for his very first time. This wave is a just a snippet of a session that will be released in a set of weekly clips from Riley and his filmer Owen Milne. Hit play and the scroll down to read our quick chat with Riley about his first session at The Bay.

CWSo, Riley, what's it like surfing Waimea for the first time?

Riley Laing: Yeah it's pretty cool. I didn't know what to expect but I paddled out and all my big wave heroes were there, like Makua Rothman and Christian Fletcher and stuff, they were out all out there! I got a couple of waves and I was frothing.

How is the vibe in the line-up, paddling around next to all your heroes?

It was pretty crazy because it was so crowded. They were all laughing and, I dunno, it was pretty sick. I was just frothing to be out there with them.

Were you ready? Did you think that Waimea was a definite possibility in this trip?

Yeah I did think so because I'm here for six weeks. I was just stoked to get out there early in the trip so that the next swell I'll be more comfortable and hopefully I'll get a bit deeper.

Were you nervous?

Not really, it was kind of weird because I was more nervous about being on the wave and where everyone is taking the drop from and about where I'm going to turn, and stuff and like hitting someone and hitting their rails. I wasn't too nervous about the wave, I was more scared about hitting someone on the wave or like bailing and my board hitting someone.

You didn't want to upset anyone.

Yeah, I didn't want to get on the wrong side of people.

Did someone paddle out with you and show you the ropes?

Nah, I went by myself. I watched a guy jump in in the corner and just like followed him out and got out and watched a couple sets. Then I snuck in with the crowd and got a couple waves.

Talk us through the wave you sent through.

Yeah, that was my last or second last wave. It kind of picked up, for about half an hour a few big sets came through. I nearly got a couple on the head and I just snuck over one that I nearly fell over off the back of it. But yeah, it was kind of weird, I paddled wide and then I thought I might be able to get it so I paddled back into the peak and got up on a little bit of wedge and got under it. It was a sick wave and a fun drop. I was stoked.

Yeah, the drop looks pretty critical.

I was going heaps fast and my Dylan Longbottom 8'0" went so sick out there, it went so fast I was frothin.

Tell us about the board you rode.

It was my first time riding it. It's an 8'0" Dylan Longbottom, I forget how thick and wide it is. I rode it as a quad with a Gerry Lopez quad set-up with like really small fins so I can turn it. But the board went sick out there.

How long after paddling out did it take for you to think, "Alright, I'm gonna turn and I'm gonna go…"?

Probably about ten minutes. I got about two waves in about fifteen minutes and I was like, Oh sweet. I'm kind of frothing now, I got two waves so quickly. I was out there for about three and half hours all up and I got about eight waves or so, so I was pretty stoked.

That's awesome man. Was anyone a stand out out there today?

Koa Rothman got a real good one. A big and deep one. But everyone out there was pushing each other and kept going deeper and sitting in further and taking off under the lip and it was just crazy to watch it right there in front of ya, and then to try and copy them.

That's great man. All the best for the rest of your time on the North Shore, hopefully Waimea kicks again.

Thanks. Yeah it might be good tomorrow hopefully. Thanks so much for the call. Appreciate it. – MJ

Have a sweet clip? You could win Wave of the Week. It's kinda easy. Just send a private vimeo link (with a password) of one good wave to competitions@coastalwatch.com with the subject line "Wave of The Week". We open that email. We watch, we like, we make it Wave of The Week. Then you to invoice us $100. Done!

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Tags: wave of the week , video , riley laing , hawaii , waimea , owen milne (create Alert from these tags)

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